Sunday 26 December 2021

Buon natale da Siena


To hell if it looks pretentious, and in any case we feel a bit reborn ourselves, for at least three reasons: 1) getting away from blighted Blighty, 2) doing it by train, rekindling happy memories of Interrails past, and entering France/crossing Paris on the very last day when it was possible to do so and 3) seeing Italy again, the country I love more than any other, after a painful two-year-plus absence. Thus the first glimpse of an Alpine rock-face before Chambery.

Impressions of Torino in detail must wait, but what a glorious, spacious city, and how amazing to see the Alps so clear from so many streets. This was new, and seemed miraculous to us. Then on to Firenze, and the impact of Baptistery and Duomo was so different from previous visits (not sure why).

Now we're in the bosom of friend Sophie's warm and welcoming home in Siena. With her friend Pia joining us, the Swedish tradition of a big feast on the eve was adopted, and before that I managed to slip out to an intimate service at 6pm that had taken my fancy, in the district of the Oca (goose) contrada (Palio connections to be explained some other side). 

I think I did well, because the Oratory of St Catherine which belongs to Oca isn't usually open. It's a jewel, with Neroccio di Bartolomeo's statue of the saint very much central, putti by Sodoma above and finely detailed scenes from the life around the wall. Not right to photograph during the service, so the few shots I took were on departure, but you can see how lovely it is. 

Later we strode out for Midnight Mass in the Duomo, so very different from when J and I attended 34 years ago. Then the building was packed, and Italians stood around and smoked or showed off their fur coats. This was a very sombre affair. The old ladies certainly weren't out - not the right time. But it IS so refreshing to be in a country where vaccine passes admit you to restaurants, museums, trains and places of entetainment. Masks on the streets, too. Why didn't our hapless government ever do all of this?

13 comments:

Liam mansfield said...

Siena must be special at Christmas.when your friend goes to Rome are you staying on or are you off to some where else? You may never get back to england

David said...

Well, we certainly won't WANT to come back. But so long as they don't keep cancelling Eurostars, we should be OK.

Liam mansfield said...

So are you returning to paris now or in a few days. Siena in winter must be magic

Liam mansfield said...

So did you spend a night in Paris, turin and Florence?

David said...

We spent three nights and three glorious days in dazzling Torino, two nights in Firenze, and Xmas with Sophie and Pia here in Siena. Reluctant to advertise what happens next, not least because it all seems so precarious in spite of what we've achieved so far, but will let you know when we're back in blighted Blighty. Where are you?

Liam mansfield said...

The sun is shining in nice. I am in dublin . Get train train genial to nice and count the pebbles.nice pebbles is a great company yo rent lovely small appartmentd

Liam mansfield said...

Tirin is very interesting and the square and archades by the opera House fascinating. There is a great workman's bistro in t g d squrare

David said...

We did one Xmas InterRail from Amsterdam to Nice, to stay with our friend Jonny in the hills above, and then on to Varese and Venice. Last saw the place en route for Corsica.

Liam mansfield said...

My favorite city. Glorious light and the old town has improved so much. Lots of hidden places to visit in the city. I like the people. They are cert down to earth but dam tough and Hardy. Warm hearted underneath

Liam mansfield said...

The light of nice is magic. The sunrise and sunset!

Liam mansfield said...

When was this

Liam mansfield said...

Are back in UK now?

David said...

Not just yet. See the latest post. Happy New Year!